Alaska is hands down the most exotic you can get in America without a passport, a northerly paradise where the mountains are twice as big, the skies twice as vast, the days twice as long (or don’t happen at all), and the best places are exponentially more remote. Nature, at its most epic and glorious, is still king here, with the state accounting for more than half of the U.S.’ protected wilderness areas. Locals don’t mention highway numbers, as there’s basically just one major artery, which runs in a loop from Anchorage to Fairbanks and Denali, that everyone simply calls “the road.”
While plenty of cruise ships ply the waters of the southeastern panhandle, and a good number of visitors opt for camper vans or cheap and cheerful cabins with shared bathhouses, the quintessential luxury Alaska is found by going off-road. Catering to sportsmen and photographers, the best lodges are reached only by floatplane, helicopter or 12-seater Cessna—which makes the fact that people managed to build these outposts of refined rusticity all the more remarkable.
Here are three of the finest.
ULTIMA THULE LODGE
Quite possibly the most isolated lodge anywhere, Ultima Thule Lodge takes its name from the “unknowable realm” beyond the northern bounds of ancient Greek maps (and a Longfellow book inspired by same). Getting there requires perseverance: a six-hour drive northeast from Anchorage to Chitina, then a 90-minute flight from the airstrip to the lodge, in the Wrangell-St. Elias Wilderness. By the time we arrived, the other 11 guests and I were congratulating ourselves for merely having made it.
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